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On the Road to Ouranoupolis
Halkidiki is a great palm leaf shaped expanse
of 2,886 square kilometres in the Northern Greece close to
Thessaloniki. With its three peninsulas Cassandra, Sithonia and
Athos projecting into the sea, it forms the longest coastline in
mainland Greece, some 500 kilometres of sandy beaches and the
clearest blue seas. Picturesque little fishing villages and
peaceful fishermen's hamlets by the sea, nesting between the
golden sands and lush forests of pine trees which seem to grow on
the shore. Some way inland traditional villages with narrow
streets and houses built in stone and wood are waiting to be
discovered. 
Although the
first two peninsulas, Cassandra and Sithonia are well populated,
the most eastern peninsula, that of Mount Athos has remained
unspoiled. It consists of a range which stretches south-east for
thirty miles. A rugged, sea battered peninsula 56 kilometres long.
Two kilometres wide at it's narrowest point, it broadens to
eight, with a long back-bone rising into peaks of roughly five
hundred, six hundred, six hundred and fifty, eight hundred and
fifty and a thousand meters. Finally the imposing marble summit
of Athos itself, 2,039 meters high, 6,670 feet of grey-white
crystalline limestone. It's snow cupped peak is usually crowned
by white clouds, an awesome sight to see. This is a land
dedicated to monasticism, to austere asketism and deep
contemplation. The landscape is stunning and wild. Among the
greenery and the impassable gorges, perched in the most
unexpected positions are the monumental walls of twenty
monasteries and numerous huts where hermits spend theirs days in
solitude and contemplation. Mount Athos or Agion Oros, "The
Holly Mountain" as it is locally known, is the oldest
surviving monastic community in the world. It dates back more
than a thousand years, to Byzantine times. It is a unique
monastic republic, which, although part of Greece, it is governed
by it's own local administration. This land is dedicated to
Virgin Mary and women are not permitted to enter. Ouranoupolis is
situated just outside the border to Mount Athos the only civilian
habitation on the whole peninsula, the gateway to The Holly
Mountain. Thessaloniki, 145 kilometres away is the nearest major
city with an international airport.
It is a great journey
which usually starts at the airport a few miles outside the city
of Thessaloniki and ends literally at the end of the road, at the
foot of the old Byzantine tower, in the centre of Ouranoupolis.
As the outskirts of Thessaloniki are left behind the road snakes
through farms, gardens and orchards. Then the scenery becomes
increasingly mountainous and the road twists slowly uphill,
through small rural villages and hamlets. The largest of them,
Arnea (left) is approximately half way to our destination, at the
foot of Holomon Mountain. It is an old town with traditional
stone built houses and wooden balconies hanging precariously over
the narrow cobbled streets. The women of Arnea maintain a long
tradition of rag weaving and the creations from their looms are
offered for sale in the local shops. The road cuts through the
centre of the town. An ancient plane tree stands tall over the
small town square. From it's foot a clear spring pours
continuously crystal cold water for the benefit of the weary
travellers. It is certainly worth having a drink.
After leaving Arnea the road twists down hill all the way,
through old villages and luscious forests of pine and chestnut
trees. The regular bus usually follows the old road, through
Paleohori, Neohori and Stagira where the statue of Aristotle the
philosopher and teacher of Alexander the Great can be seen by the
right side of the road, just before the entrance to the village.
The ancient town of Stager however has been discovered near the
village of Olympias, some distance away. Soon the sea on the
north side of the peninsula can be seen far in the horizon.
An alternative route has recently been opened and it is favoured by the locals and those who know the area. It turns right at Paleohori, sign posted to Megali Panagia. This is one of the oldest villages in Halkidiki known for it's miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary. After Megali Panagia the road is sign posted to Gomati, another old village of Halkidiki. Which ever route is taken they both lead to Ierissos, a small town by the sea at the very spot where the ancient town of Acanthos has been discovered. The citadel of ancient Acanthos can be seen up on the steep hill on the right side of the road exiting the town (sign posted). Ierissos is well known for it's traditional boat building industry. It is interesting to see how these wooden boats are taking shape by the shore on the main road close to the ancient citadel.
A very steep
hill follows at the top of which is the tiny whitewashed chapel
of St. Paul. Local tradition has it that St. Paul passed this
very spot on his way to Corinth and Southern Greece. Then the
road crosses over to the south side of the peninsula and the bay
of Mount Athos unfolds in front of your eyes. To the left lies
the village of Nea Roda, the very place where Xerxes, the Persian
King, cut a canal across the peninsula for his ships to pass in
481 B.C. To the right by the shore lies the hamlet of Tripity,
and further across the limpid sea the long island of Ammouliani
like a dark green lizard sunning itself. At the foot of
Ammouliani are the Drenia Islands, a group of uninhabited islets,
some no more than tiny rocky outcrops, charcoals scattered by
some giant hand in ancient times. Follow the yellow line of sandy
coastline, and far in the distance a tower rises from the
unruffled blue sea, bathing in the early morning sunlight. And
far in the distance the grey snow capped summit of Mount Athos
appears in the early morning mist.
After Tripity
the road twists and turns for twelve kilometres following the
shore, passed a number of large hotels and villas. Then up
another steep hill and the whole village of Ouranoupolis comes
into view. The old tower stands like a sentry by the sea front
with the little port at it's feet and a multitude of small
fishing boats and pleasure craft dotted all over the sea. The
village houses, none higher that two storeys, white-washed, with
red tile roofs and wooden balconies are sprawling away from the
old tower and up the surrounding hills. Before there is time to
enjoy the magnificent view the bus enters the busy main street of
the village. After two hundred meters it stops at the foot of the
tower, in the small village square. The engine is switched off.
This is the end of the road. Just six kilometres of dirt track
away is the border to Mount Athos a womenless land of monks and
pilgrims.
Visit Mount Athos, the Holy Mountain
© 2000 J Adamopoulos. All Rights Reserved.
